Sewing Corsets For Curvy Figures: Patterns & Tips

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Sewing Corsets for Curvy Figures: Patterns & Tips

Hey there, sewing enthusiasts! If you're anything like me, you love the idea of creating beautiful, custom-fit garments. And let's be real, there's something incredibly satisfying about sewing a corset. It's a statement piece, a confidence booster, and a chance to really flex those sewing muscles. But what if you're plus size? Finding the perfect plus size corset sewing pattern can feel like searching for a needle in a haystack. Fear not, my curvy friends! This guide is all about helping you navigate the world of corset sewing, specifically focusing on patterns and techniques that work beautifully for plus size figures. We'll dive into the best patterns, crucial fitting adjustments, and some pro tips to make your corset sewing journey a total success. So, grab your fabric, your tools, and let's get stitching!

Finding the Right Plus Size Corset Sewing Pattern

One of the biggest hurdles in plus size sewing is finding patterns that are actually designed for our bodies. The good news is, the options for plus size corset sewing patterns are growing! However, you still need to be a savvy shopper. Here's what to look for when selecting a pattern:

  • Size Range: This seems obvious, but check the size chart! Does the pattern actually go up to your size? Many patterns will claim to be inclusive, but their size ranges may still be limited. Look for patterns that offer a wide range of sizes, ideally up to a 5XL or 6XL. Some indie pattern designers are particularly good at this, focusing on inclusive sizing from the get-go.
  • Reviews and Testimonials: Before you commit, scour the internet for reviews. See what other plus size sewists have to say about the pattern. Did it fit well? Were the instructions clear? Were there any significant adjustments needed? Websites like PatternReview.com are goldmines for this kind of information. Don't be shy about reaching out to other sewists who have used the pattern! Most are happy to share their experiences and offer advice.
  • Pattern Style and Design: Consider the style of the corset itself. Do you want a classic Victorian silhouette, a modern overbust, or a more casual underbust? Some patterns are inherently more complex than others, so choose a design that matches your skill level and your desired look. Remember, a more intricate pattern might require more fitting adjustments. If you're a beginner, a simpler design is often a better choice.
  • Pattern Designer Reputation: Research the pattern designer. Do they specialize in corsetry? Do they have a good reputation for accurate drafting and clear instructions? A designer who understands the nuances of corset construction will make your life much easier.
  • Pattern Format: Do you prefer a printed pattern, or a PDF pattern that you print at home? PDF patterns can be more affordable and accessible, but they require some assembly. Printed patterns are ready to go, but they can be more expensive and may not always be available in the size you need. Make sure that you are comfortable with the format.

Important Considerations for Plus Size Patterns:

  • Ease of Fit: Choose patterns known for accurate sizing. Consider patterns with multiple views that let you personalize the fit.
  • Fabric Choice: Select fabrics like coutil or sturdy cotton that offer good support.
  • Detailed Instructions: Look for patterns with thorough, step-by-step instructions, possibly with images.

Essential Fitting Adjustments for Plus Size Corsets

Okay, so you've found a promising plus size corset sewing pattern. Now comes the critical part: fitting. Remember, our bodies are beautifully diverse, and off-the-rack patterns rarely fit perfectly. Here's what you need to know about making adjustments:

  • Taking Accurate Measurements: This is paramount! Grab a flexible measuring tape and take your bust, waist, and hip measurements, as well as your high bust and underbust measurements. Be precise, and don't pull the tape too tight. If possible, have someone else take your measurements for you, especially around your back. Compare your measurements to the pattern's size chart, and choose the size that best fits your measurements. Don't be afraid to grade between sizes if needed!
  • Muslin Mock-up: Before cutting into your fashion fabric, ALWAYS make a muslin mock-up (also known as a toile). This is a practice corset sewn from inexpensive fabric (like muslin or broadcloth). The muslin is your chance to fine-tune the fit without wasting your expensive fashion fabric. Sew the muslin according to the pattern instructions, paying close attention to any areas that seem too tight or too loose.
  • Common Adjustments: Here are some adjustments you might need to make for a plus size figure:
    • Full Bust Adjustment (FBA): If you have a larger bust, you'll likely need to do an FBA. This adds extra fabric to the bust area to accommodate your curves. There are many online tutorials that walk you through this process. It's often necessary to add width and length to the bust area. Make sure to keep the waist and other measurements in line with the pattern. Remember to adjust the boning channels and lining, too!
    • Waist Adjustment: Corsets cinch the waist, but you want a comfortable fit. Adjust the waistline by taking in or letting out at the side seams and center back seam. You may also need to adjust the shaping of the corset panels.
    • Hip Adjustment: If your hips are wider than the pattern, you may need to add extra width to the hip area. This can be done by grading out the pattern at the hip line or adding a small wedge to the side seams.
    • Length Adjustments: Consider the overall length of the corset. Plus size figures often have longer torsos. If the corset seems too short, add length at the waistline, or at the top or bottom edge of the corset.
    • Back Adjustments: Pay close attention to the back panel, especially the placement of the grommets or eyelets. Make sure there's enough room for comfortable lacing.
  • Test Fit: After making adjustments to your muslin, try it on! Lace it up (or have someone else lace it up for you) and assess the fit. Make any further adjustments as needed. Don't be afraid to make multiple muslins until you get the perfect fit. This step is the key to creating a comfortable and flattering corset.
  • Transferring Adjustments: Once you're happy with the fit of your muslin, transfer the adjustments to your pattern pieces. You can do this by tracing the pattern onto paper, making the necessary alterations, and then cutting out your fashion fabric. Remember, accuracy is key, so take your time and be precise.

Expert Tip: Before cutting any fabric, make a mock-up (toile) of the corset to ensure a good fit. This helps in adjusting the pattern to your body. Also, it’s beneficial to find patterns with detailed fitting guides for a more personalized fit.

Materials and Tools for Plus Size Corset Sewing

Having the right materials and tools will make the corset-making process much smoother. Here's a breakdown of what you'll need:

  • Fabric:
    • Coutil: This is the traditional corset fabric. It's a tightly woven cotton fabric that provides excellent structure and support. It comes in various weights and colors. It's a must-have for durability and structure.
    • Fashion Fabric: This is the fabric you'll see on the outside of your corset. Choose a fabric that complements your style and the occasion. Options include brocade, satin, silk, or even leather. This is for the aesthetics and adds personality.
    • Lining: A lining fabric adds comfort and helps to protect your fashion fabric. Consider fabrics like cotton batiste or silk. Look for fabrics that are soft, breathable, and easy to work with. These layers are for comfort and protection.
  • Boning:
    • Steel Boning: This is the most common type of boning for corsets. It provides the necessary structure and support. Choose steel boning in various widths to match the boning channels in your pattern. Flat steel boning is used for the center front and back. Spiral steel boning is used for curved areas. It helps with shaping and flexibility.
    • Synthetic Boning: Other options include plastic boning (also known as Rigilene) or synthetic whalebone. These are less expensive and more flexible than steel, but they may not provide the same level of support for a plus size figure. It is important to know the weight of the corset and choose boning accordingly.
  • Lacing: Use strong, durable lacing, such as waxed cotton cord or satin ribbon. You will need enough lacing for the length of your corset. It should be strong enough to withstand the tension of lacing. Be sure it complements your design.
  • Eyelets/Grommets: Choose eyelets or grommets that are appropriate for the weight of your corset fabric. These will need to be properly placed and installed at the back of the corset for lacing. Grommets need a tool kit for installation. Eyelets require a tool for installation. They're essential for lacing the corset. Use a setting tool for proper installation.
  • Boning Channels/Tape: These channels hold the boning in place. You can either buy pre-made boning channels or make your own from fabric. For ease of use, you can buy pre-made channels or use boning tape. Make sure they fit the width of your boning.
  • Thread: Use strong, durable thread, such as polyester or heavy-duty cotton thread. Choose a thread color that matches your fashion fabric. This ensures durability in the construction.
  • Needles: Use a sharp, sturdy needle that is appropriate for the weight of your fabric. Consider using a heavy-duty needle for sewing through multiple layers of fabric. It is important to have the proper needle size and type.
  • Tools:
    • Scissors or Rotary Cutter: For cutting fabric.
    • Seam Ripper: For correcting mistakes.
    • Pins or Clips: To hold fabric layers together.
    • Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
    • Marking Tools: Such as chalk, a fabric pen, or tailor's tacks.
    • Awl: To make holes for eyelets or grommets.
    • Hammer or Eyelet/Grommet Setting Tool: For installing eyelets or grommets.
    • Clamps: These can be helpful for holding layers of fabric together while sewing.
    • Iron and Ironing Board: For pressing seams and shaping the corset. A good iron is important for a professional finish.

Pro Tip: Invest in quality materials. The better the materials, the better your corset will look and last. Also, practice on scraps before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing a Plus Size Corset

Alright, let's get down to the nitty-gritty of the sewing process! Here's a general guide to sewing a corset. Remember, always follow the specific instructions that come with your chosen plus size corset sewing pattern. I can't stress this enough!

  1. Prepare the Pattern:
    • Carefully read through the pattern instructions. Make a note of any specific recommendations for your chosen fabrics. Trace the pattern pieces onto paper and cut them out. It’s always best to be prepared.
  2. Cut the Fabric:
    • Lay out your fabric and pin the pattern pieces in place, making sure to align the grainline of the pattern pieces with the grainline of your fabric. Cut out all the fabric pieces for the corset, including the coutil, fashion fabric, and lining. It's best to cut everything at once.
  3. Prepare the Boning Channels:
    • If your pattern requires you to make your own boning channels, cut strips of fabric according to the pattern instructions. Fold the strips in half lengthwise and press. Sew the boning channels to the coutil pieces, making sure the width of the channel is slightly wider than your boning. Ensure precise measurements. Consider buying pre-made channels for a faster process.
  4. Sew the Panels:
    • With right sides together, sew the corset panels together, following the pattern instructions. Use a straight stitch and a seam allowance as specified by the pattern. Press the seams open. Make sure to stay consistent with your seams.
  5. Insert the Boning:
    • Insert the boning into the boning channels. You can use a bodkin or a small, blunt tool to help guide the boning through the channels. Secure the boning at the top and bottom of the corset with a few stitches. If you do not have enough patience, consider using boning tape.
  6. Construct the Lining:
    • Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the lining fabric. Attach the lining to the inside of the corset. The lining will help to conceal the construction and make the corset more comfortable. Making sure the lining is smooth inside the corset is important.
  7. Apply the Facing (if applicable):
    • If your pattern includes a facing, attach it to the top and bottom edges of the corset. This provides a clean finish and prevents the edges from fraying. A facing is important for a polished look.
  8. Install the Eyelets/Grommets:
    • Mark the placement of the eyelets or grommets on the back of the corset, following the pattern instructions. Use an awl to make small holes. Insert the eyelets or grommets and use the appropriate tool to secure them in place. Make sure to space the eyelets evenly. This is an important step to make the corset functional.
  9. Finishing Touches:
    • Press the corset to remove any wrinkles. Trim any loose threads. You might also want to add embellishments, such as lace, beading, or ribbon, to customize your corset. Add any desired embellishments to make it unique.

Important Note: Consider the weight of your fabric and the type of boning when choosing your needle. If you are a beginner, it is better to start with a simpler design.

Troubleshooting Common Corset Sewing Problems

Even with the best preparation, things can go wrong. Here's how to troubleshoot common corset sewing problems:

  • Poor Fit: If your corset doesn't fit well, go back to your muslin and review your measurements. Make sure you've made the necessary adjustments. Readjust the corset as many times as necessary. If the corset still does not fit properly, consult with a professional seamstress.
  • Boning Issues: If the boning is poking through the fabric, it means your boning channels are too narrow or your boning is too sharp. Trim the boning or reinforce the boning channels. If the boning is breaking or bending, use stronger boning or reduce the amount of stress on the boning. Remember, steel boning is strong, but it can break under extreme pressure.
  • Fabric Issues: If your fabric is fraying, try using a fabric sealant or serging the edges of the fabric. If your fabric is puckering, adjust your stitch length and tension. Also, consider the weight of your fabric. Heavier fabrics tend to be easier to work with. Choose fabrics that are appropriate for the corset design.
  • Lacing Problems: If your lacing is slipping, try using a different type of lacing or tightening the lacing. Make sure the eyelets or grommets are properly installed and secure. Lacing can be tricky, so make sure to get the hang of it by practicing.
  • General Tips:
    • Rushing: Don't rush the process! Corset making takes time and patience. Take your time. Rushing leads to mistakes.
    • Seam allowance: Always double-check your seam allowance. Check multiple times.
    • Pressing: Press seams often during the sewing process.

Pro Tip: If you encounter any problems, don't get discouraged! Corset sewing can be challenging, but it's also incredibly rewarding. Take a break, consult online resources, or seek advice from experienced sewists.

Resources and Inspiration for Plus Size Corset Sewing

The world of corset sewing is vast and exciting! Here are some resources to help you along the way:

  • Online Pattern Shops:
    • Orange Lingerie: Offers a variety of well-drafted corset patterns with detailed instructions and supportive tutorials.
    • Pin-Up Corsetry: Known for its historically accurate corset patterns, with a good selection of plus sizes.
    • Laughing Moon Mercantile: Specializes in historical patterns, including corsets, and offers inclusive sizing.
    • Emerald Erin: A great place for lingerie, swimwear, and corset patterns. Offers tutorials.
  • Sewing Blogs and Websites:
    • PatternReview.com: A treasure trove of pattern reviews and discussions, including reviews of plus size corset sewing patterns.
    • The Sewing Channel on YouTube: Many tutorials on sewing, and how to sew corsets.
    • Various blogs: You can often find sewing blogs that detail the sewing process.
  • Social Media:
    • Instagram: Follow corset makers and sewing influencers for inspiration and advice. Use hashtags like #corsetmaking, #plussizecorset, and #sewinginspiration.
    • Pinterest: Create a mood board of corset styles you love. Pin tutorials and patterns. Pinterest is useful for inspiration.
  • Books: