Sewing Pattern Sizes: Why So Tricky?

Hey there, sewing enthusiasts! Ever wondered why, when you buy a sewing pattern, the size you need seems to be a whole lot bigger than what you wear in ready-to-wear clothing? Like, you're a size 12 in regular jeans, but suddenly you're a size 18 or 20 in a sewing pattern? It's a common head-scratcher, and today we're going to dive deep into why sewing pattern sizes are so small and what's going on behind the scenes. Buckle up, because we're about to unravel this sizing mystery! This is a question many beginner and experienced sewists have asked. The world of sewing patterns can feel a bit like Alice in Wonderland at times, where the rules of the normal world don't quite apply. So, why the discrepancy? Let's explore the history, the standards, and the sneaky little secrets of sewing pattern sizing.

The History of Sewing Pattern Sizes

To understand the small sewing pattern sizes, we need to take a trip back in time. Back in the day, the sizing systems used for clothing were very different from what we use today. There wasn't a standardized system like we have now. Patterns were often based on the measurements of a specific 'ideal' figure, which was usually a slender, hourglass shape. These ideal figures were created in the early 20th century. During the industrial revolution, with the rise of mass production, there was a need for a more standardized way to create clothes. This led to the development of sizing charts, but even then, they weren't universally adopted or consistent. The problem is that these sizing standards haven't always kept up with changes in average body sizes and shapes. The average woman's size has increased over the years, but sewing pattern sizing has not always reflected this. This means the sizing charts used by pattern companies today are still based on older standards. This also accounts for the reason why sizes are inconsistent from brand to brand. Because the standards aren't universally applied, one company's size 12 might be another's size 14. This inconsistency can be incredibly frustrating for sewists, especially those who are new to sewing. In many cases, vintage patterns are even more problematic. These vintage patterns are frequently based on older, even smaller standards. It's not uncommon to find that a modern size 12 might require a pattern size of 18 or even larger. This means that a sewist needs to choose the best pattern size for them. So, the history behind the issue is a complex mix of changing body shapes, outdated standards, and the evolution of the clothing industry.

Why Pattern Sizes Differ from Ready-to-Wear

Alright, let's get into the nitty-gritty of why your usual size doesn't translate when you're working with a sewing pattern. One of the main reasons is the difference in how ready-to-wear clothing is sized versus how sewing patterns are graded. Ready-to-wear clothing manufacturers often use vanity sizing. This means that they intentionally make their garments seem smaller than they actually are. So, you might be a size 10 in a store, but the garment is really cut to fit a size 12 or 14. It's a marketing trick to make customers feel better about themselves and encourage them to buy more clothes. The opposite is generally true for sewing patterns. Pattern companies tend to grade their patterns based on older sizing standards, which, as we discussed, are generally smaller. Also, the measurements on patterns are often based on body measurements, not the finished garment measurements. This means the pattern is designed to fit your body, and the extra ease (the extra room for movement and comfort) is already built into the design. If the pattern calls for 38 inches around the bust, the finished garment might measure closer to 40 or 42 inches. The difference is due to the addition of seam allowances, which, in the pattern industry, have historically been different than those used in ready to wear. Because a pattern is meant to be a template, it does not include extra ease for vanity sizing. They are based on the body measurements to create a garment.

Another significant factor is the intended fit. Ready-to-wear clothing often has more stretch and is designed with more fitted silhouettes. Sewing patterns, on the other hand, might be drafted with more ease, especially in vintage patterns, to allow for comfort and movement. Fabric also plays a huge role. Ready-to-wear clothes are often made of more forgiving fabrics with more stretch, while sewing patterns can be designed for a wide range of fabrics, from woven cotton to delicate silks. Therefore, if you are using a non-stretch fabric, it is more important to choose a pattern size based on your measurements. Finally, the manufacturing processes are different. Ready-to-wear clothing is produced on a large scale, which allows manufacturers to make adjustments to fit and sizing that aren't always feasible for individual sewists. It's all about different purposes and different priorities. The goals and methods of ready-to-wear clothing manufacturers and pattern companies often clash, leading to those confusing size discrepancies.

Demystifying Sewing Pattern Measurements

Okay, so we've established that the numbers on a sewing pattern don't always align with the numbers on your store-bought clothes. Now, let's talk about what you should be looking at. The most important thing when choosing a sewing pattern size is your measurements. Grab a measuring tape and take accurate measurements of your bust, waist, and hips. Compare these measurements to the sizing chart on the pattern envelope, and then you'll find the best fit. If your measurements fall between sizes, you'll need to decide whether to size up or down based on the pattern's design and your personal preferences. Don't be afraid to make a muslin, which is a test garment made from inexpensive fabric, to ensure the pattern fits before cutting into your precious fabric. It is a sewing pattern tester. A muslin allows you to make adjustments to the pattern, such as adding or subtracting length or width. If you're a beginner, it's particularly important to start with a muslin, since you're less familiar with how patterns fit and how to make adjustments. It's also helpful to look at the finished garment measurements, which are usually included on the pattern envelope. These measurements will tell you how big the finished garment will be. Use those measurements to determine the garment's fit. The finished garment measurements are very helpful for determining the amount of ease. The amount of ease is the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements. By understanding your own measurements, the pattern's measurements, and the finished garment measurements, you'll be well on your way to a perfect fit. Remember, sewing is about creating something that fits you, so don't get hung up on the size label! Focus on the measurements, and you'll be golden. Take your bust measurement at the fullest point, and make sure the measuring tape is parallel to the floor. The waist measurement should be at the natural waist, usually the narrowest point of your torso. The hip measurement is taken at the fullest point of your hips. If your measurements don't fall neatly into one size, don't worry! It's common for sewists to grade between sizes, which means blending different sizes at the waist, hips, or bust to get the best fit.

Tips for Dealing with Pattern Sizes

Now that you understand the sizing situation, let's talk about some practical tips and tricks to make your sewing journey smoother. First off, always measure yourself before choosing a pattern size. As we've mentioned, the size on the envelope is just a starting point. Compare your measurements to the pattern's sizing chart. Don't rely on the size you wear in ready-to-wear clothing, because, as we've learned, those numbers are often misleading. Make a muslin! Seriously, it's the best way to ensure a good fit. Use inexpensive fabric to make a practice garment, and then you can make adjustments to the pattern as needed. Remember, it's better to spend a little extra time and fabric on a muslin than to ruin a beautiful piece of fabric. Check the finished garment measurements. These measurements will give you a better idea of how the finished garment will fit. They're particularly helpful for determining the amount of ease in the garment. Learn to adjust patterns. Sewing patterns are not perfect, and you'll likely need to make some adjustments to get the perfect fit. Learning how to adjust patterns, such as making a full bust adjustment, a small bust adjustment, or a swayback adjustment, is a valuable skill that will improve your sewing results. Don't be afraid to try different pattern brands. Each pattern company has its own sizing standards, so you might find that you fit a different size in one brand than another. Don't worry about the number on the pattern. Sewing is about creating clothes that fit you, not about the size label. Focus on getting a good fit. Ignore the size on the pattern envelope, and focus on the measurements. Lastly, embrace the process. Sewing is a skill that takes practice. Don't get discouraged if your first few garments don't fit perfectly. Every garment you make is a learning experience. You'll get better with each project. You'll discover different pattern brands, adjust the pattern, and learn different techniques.

The Future of Pattern Sizing

What does the future hold for sewing pattern sizes? There are definitely discussions and movements within the sewing community to address the inconsistencies and lack of standardization. Some pattern companies are starting to offer more inclusive sizing ranges, and more body shapes are represented. There's a growing push for more transparency in sizing and for pattern companies to provide more detailed information about fit and ease. This is all good news for sewists, especially those who struggle to find patterns that fit well. There are also efforts to standardize sizing across different pattern companies. But, because the sewing industry is a niche market, there's no major movement to change the current standards. Technology also plays a part, with the rise of digital pattern drafting and 3D body scanning, and could potentially lead to more personalized and accurate pattern sizing in the future. As sewists become more vocal about the need for better sizing and more inclusive patterns, the industry will have to listen. Sewing patterns have a long history, and it's always evolving. While the road ahead may not be easy, there is a lot of potential for improvements in sizing.

So, there you have it, guys! The lowdown on why sewing pattern sizes are so small. It's a combination of history, industry standards, and the different approaches to sizing in ready-to-wear clothing and pattern design. By understanding these factors and by taking accurate measurements and making muslins, you can navigate the world of sewing patterns with confidence and create garments that fit perfectly. Remember, it's all about the measurements, not the numbers. Happy sewing, and don't let those pattern sizes intimidate you! The best part of sewing is creating something that fits your body and reflects your style. Embrace the process, keep learning, and enjoy the journey of creating your own wardrobe, one stitch at a time! Keep on sewing, and keep creating. You got this!