Sewing The Perfect Plus Size Wide Leg Pants

Hey there, sewing enthusiasts! Are you ready to dive into the wonderful world of crafting your own plus size wide leg pants? These stylish and comfy pants are a wardrobe staple, offering both elegance and ease of movement. If you've been on the hunt for the perfect pattern, fabric, and fit, you're in the right place. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to create a stunning pair of wide-leg pants that flatter your figure and make you feel amazing. So, grab your sewing machine, your favorite fabric, and let's get started!

Finding the Right Plus Size Wide Leg Pants Sewing Pattern

First things first: the pattern! Finding a plus size wide leg pants sewing pattern that fits your unique shape is crucial. Don't worry, there are tons of options out there, so let's break down how to find the perfect one for you. When searching for patterns, pay close attention to the size range. Look for patterns specifically designed for plus sizes, as these will have been drafted with curves in mind. This means better proportions, more comfortable fit, and less tweaking on your part. Butterick, McCall's, Simplicity, and Vogue are popular brands that often offer a good selection of plus-size patterns. Online pattern shops are another great resource! Sites like Etsy and independent designers often have unique and inclusive patterns. When browsing, read reviews and look for patterns with detailed instructions and clear illustrations, especially if you're a beginner. Look at the finished garment measurements provided in the pattern. These measurements are more important than the size chart, as they indicate the actual dimensions of the finished pants. Compare these measurements to your own measurements to ensure a good fit. Remember, you can always adjust the pattern. Don't be afraid to make minor alterations to customize the fit to your body. Consider the style of the pants. Wide-leg pants come in various styles, from high-waisted to low-rise, with different pocket designs, and with or without pleats. Choose a style that you love and that suits your personal taste.

Key Features to Look for in a Plus Size Pattern

• Ease of Adjustment: Look for patterns that provide tips on how to adjust for different body shapes, like adding extra ease for your tummy or adjusting the length. Patterns that include lengthening and shortening lines are also super helpful.
• Clear Instructions: Beginners, rejoice! Choose patterns with well-written and easy-to-follow instructions, accompanied by clear diagrams. This will make the sewing process much smoother.
• Fabric Recommendations: The pattern should suggest suitable fabrics. This will help you select the right material for the drape and flow of the pants.
• Pocket Options: Pockets are a must, right? Look for patterns that offer different pocket options, like side seam pockets, patch pockets, or even hidden pockets for a sleek look.
• Waistband Construction: Consider the waistband construction. An elastic waistband is comfortable and easy to sew, while a traditional waistband with a zipper offers a more polished look. Choose the one that suits your sewing skills and style preference. Consider the rise of the pants. High-waisted pants can elongate the legs and cinch the waist, while mid-rise or low-rise pants offer a more relaxed fit. Choose the rise that you feel most comfortable and confident in. Don't be afraid to experiment with different patterns! Try different styles and brands to find the ones that work best for you. Sewing is all about practice, so don't get discouraged if your first attempt isn't perfect. Enjoy the process of learning and creating something unique that fits your style. Consider the ease of construction. Some patterns are more complex than others. If you're new to sewing, start with a pattern that's rated for beginners or has a simple construction.

Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Wide Leg Pants

Choosing the right fabric is just as important as the pattern. The fabric will determine the drape, flow, and overall look of your wide leg pants. Here’s a breakdown of some fantastic fabric choices.

Popular Fabric Options

• Woven Fabrics: These are generally more structured. They hold their shape well and are great for a more tailored look.
  • Linen: Perfect for summer, linen is breathable and has a beautiful drape. It wrinkles easily, but that's part of its charm. Use a lighter weight linen for a flowy look, or a heavier weight for more structure.
  • Cotton: Cotton is versatile, affordable, and easy to sew. You can find cotton in various weights and weaves, such as poplin, twill, and broadcloth. Choose a cotton with a good drape for wide leg pants.
  • Tencel/Lyocell: This eco-friendly fabric drapes beautifully and has a silky feel. It's a great choice for a more elevated look and is often used in high-end ready-to-wear.
  • Rayon/Viscose: Rayon is another fabric with great drape and is known for its silky feel. It's often more affordable than Tencel/Lyocell. Just be mindful that it can be prone to wrinkles.
  • Denim: For a casual, everyday look, denim is a great choice! Choose a lighter weight denim for comfort and ease of movement, and consider a denim with a bit of stretch for a more forgiving fit.
  • Wool: A luxurious option, wool is warm, breathable, and drapes beautifully. Choose a lightweight wool for a less bulky look.
• Knit Fabrics: Knits offer a more relaxed fit and are often more comfortable, perfect if you prioritize ease of movement.
  • Double Brushed Poly (DBP): This fabric is super soft and drapes beautifully, making it a great choice for wide-leg pants. It's also relatively easy to sew.
  • French Terry: French terry has a soft, looped back and is incredibly comfortable. It's a good choice for casual wide-leg pants.
  • Stretch Woven Fabrics: These combine the structure of woven fabrics with the comfort of stretch, offering a flattering fit.

Things to Consider When Choosing Fabric

• Drape: How the fabric hangs and flows is essential for wide-leg pants. Choose fabrics with good drape for a flattering silhouette.
• Weight: The weight of the fabric will affect the overall look and feel of the pants. Lighter-weight fabrics are ideal for warmer weather, while heavier-weight fabrics provide more structure and warmth.
• Stretch: Consider the amount of stretch in the fabric. A small amount of stretch can improve comfort and fit, but too much stretch might distort the shape of the pants.
• Care Instructions: Always check the fabric's care instructions before you buy it. Some fabrics require special care, such as dry cleaning, while others can be machine washed and dried.
• Color and Pattern: Choose colors and patterns that you love and that complement your existing wardrobe. Consider the season and the occasions for which you'll wear the pants.
• Fabric Width: Make sure the fabric width is sufficient for your pattern. Wide-leg pants often require more fabric than other styles.

Mastering the Perfect Fit: Alterations and Adjustments

Okay, you've got your pattern, you've chosen your fabric, now comes the fit! This is where you make those plus size wide leg pants truly yours. Don't worry if the pattern doesn't fit perfectly straight out of the envelope. Minor adjustments are often necessary, and they can make a huge difference in the final result. Here's a guide to getting that perfect fit.

Taking Accurate Measurements

• Waist: Measure around your natural waistline, where you typically wear your pants. Keep the tape measure snug but not too tight.
• Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips. Make sure the tape measure is parallel to the floor.
• Inseam: Measure from the crotch down to where you want the hem of your pants to fall. Ask a friend to help you or use a pair of well-fitting pants to measure.
• Thigh: Measure around the fullest part of your thigh. This measurement is particularly important for plus-size figures.
• Check the pattern: Compare your measurements to the pattern's size chart and finished garment measurements. This will help you select the correct size and identify any potential adjustments that may be needed. Consider making a muslin, which is a test garment made from inexpensive fabric. This will allow you to check the fit and make any necessary adjustments before cutting into your good fabric.

Common Alterations and Adjustments

• Waist Adjustment: If the waist is too large or too small, adjust the side seams or the back seam. For a larger waist, add width to the pattern pieces; for a smaller waist, reduce the width.
• Hip Adjustment: If the hips are too tight, add width to the pattern pieces at the hip area. If they are too loose, reduce the width. Often, grading between sizes on the pattern can help. This is where you use different sizes for different areas of your body (e.g., a size 20 waist and a size 22 hip).
• Thigh Adjustment: If the thighs are too tight, add width to the pattern pieces at the thigh area. If they are too loose, reduce the width.
• Length Adjustment: If the pants are too long or too short, adjust the length at the hem or at the lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern. It is usually best to do this at the lengthen/shorten lines as it will keep the proportions correct.
• Full Tummy Adjustment (FTA): If you have a fuller tummy, you might need to make an FTA. This alteration adds extra fabric to the front of the pants to accommodate your tummy. You can usually find tutorials online to learn how to do this.
• Sway Back Adjustment (SBA): If you have a sway back, you might need to make an SBA. This alteration removes excess fabric from the back of the pants to prevent them from gaping at the back. Online tutorials can also guide you through this process.

Fit Tips and Tricks

• Pinning and Basting: Pin the seams together and baste stitch them before sewing the final seams. This allows you to check the fit and make any final adjustments. Try on the pants inside out, so you can easily see the seam allowances. Mark any areas where the fit needs adjusting with pins.
• Use a Seam Ripper: Don't be afraid to use a seam ripper to take apart seams if you need to make adjustments. It's all part of the process.
• Take Your Time: Sewing is not a race! Take your time and be patient with yourself. The more you sew, the better you'll get at fitting and adjusting patterns.
• Try the pants on in front of a mirror, and assess the fit from all angles. This will help you identify any areas that need adjustment.
• Consider your shoes. If you plan to wear the pants with heels, make sure you take that into account when determining the length. It's often easier to make pants shorter than it is to make them longer.
• Consider the amount of ease in the pattern. Ease refers to the extra fabric in a garment to allow for movement and comfort. Some patterns have more ease than others. If you prefer a closer fit, look for patterns with less ease or consider sizing down.

Sewing Your Plus Size Wide Leg Pants: Step-by-Step

Alright, let's get down to the actual sewing! This section will provide a general overview of the steps involved in sewing plus size wide leg pants. Remember to always refer to your pattern instructions for specific guidance. Different patterns might have slightly different construction methods.

Preparing the Fabric and Pattern

1. Wash and Press: Wash and dry your fabric according to the care instructions. This will pre-shrink the fabric and prevent the pants from shrinking after you've sewn them. Press your fabric thoroughly before cutting out the pattern pieces.
2. Cut Out the Pattern Pieces: Lay out the pattern pieces on your fabric, following the grainline and cutting layout provided in your pattern. Use fabric weights or pins to hold the pattern pieces in place. Cut out the fabric pieces carefully, using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter.
3. Transfer Markings: Transfer any pattern markings (darts, notches, pocket placements, etc.) to your fabric. You can use tailor's tacks, pins, or a fabric marker.

Sewing the Pants

1. Sew the Darts (if applicable): If your pattern includes darts, sew them first. Fold the fabric along the dart lines and sew from the wide end to the point.
2. Sew the Pockets: Attach the pockets to the front or side seams, according to the pattern instructions. You can use either patch pockets or in-seam pockets.
3. Sew the Front and Back Seams: Sew the front and back seams of the pants, right sides together. Use a straight stitch and finish the seams with a serger or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
4. Sew the Inseams: Sew the inseams of the pants, right sides together, from the crotch to the hem. Finish the seams.
5. Construct the Waistband: If your pattern has a traditional waistband, sew the waistband pieces together and attach them to the pants. If it has an elastic waistband, create a casing and insert the elastic.
6. Sew the Zipper (if applicable): Insert the zipper into the fly front, following the pattern instructions. There are various zipper insertion methods; choose the one that works best for you.
7. Hem the Pants: Finish the hem of the pants. You can use a blind hem stitch, a machine straight stitch, or hand-sew the hem. Press the hem to finish.
8. Press and Finish: Press your finished pants. Give them a final once-over and trim any loose threads. You're done!

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even experienced sewers run into hiccups. Here's how to troubleshoot some common issues you might encounter when sewing plus size wide leg pants.

• Fit Issues: If the pants don't fit well, don't panic! Use the tips on fit adjustments, like pinching out excess fabric or letting out tight seams.
• Uneven Hems: If the hems are uneven, measure and adjust the length of the hem before sewing. Use a hem gauge or a measuring tape.
• Puckering: Puckering can happen around the zipper or in the seams. Make sure your tension is correctly set and use a pressing cloth when pressing. Try using a finer needle and thread, and sew slowly.
• Fabric Slippage: If your fabric is slippery, use tissue paper or a walking foot to help with sewing. Always pin carefully before sewing to secure the fabric layers.
• Stitching Issues: If your stitches are skipping, adjust the tension of your sewing machine. Change the needle and use the correct thread for your fabric. Ensure the needle is inserted correctly.
• Uneven seams: Make sure you are using the correct seam allowance, and that you are guiding the fabric evenly through your machine. Check the foot pressure if the fabric is feeding unevenly.

Conclusion: Embrace the Wide Leg Trend!

There you have it! With the right pattern, fabric, and fit adjustments, you can create stunning plus size wide leg pants that will become a staple in your wardrobe. Don't be afraid to experiment, have fun, and enjoy the process of making something that is uniquely you. Happy sewing!